The Superiority Burgers are now even more superior

Much like language, our relaunched Recipes archive is a living, breathing, changeable thing. Not only does it grow as we add to it, but we also dip in regularly to make tweaks that reflect our current standards for recipe writing and testing.

And we love to hear your comments. Of course, we’re thrilled when a recipe exceeds your expectations and want you to shout that from the rooftops. But we also want to know when and where you run into any trouble. Our goal is to publish instructions that are foolproof, and we strive in our testing to reach it. Knowing when to stop tweaking and adjusting and to declare a recipe ready for publication sometimes strikes me as akin to counting the seconds between pops when trying to decide when to stop microwaving popcorn. Just when you think it’s ready — another pop!

Get the recipe: Superiority Burgers

In all the work that our engineering, product and other teams have done on Recipes to prepare for launch, one requirement was crucial: Now that readers can more easily find our much older recipes, we knew we needed a way to be quickly notified whenever a reader left a comment. Adding that function has helped us keep up more systematically with your thoughts, opinions and experiences with our recipes. And of all the types of comments we get, the most meaningful are those from readers who have actually cooked it. In addition to answering any substantive questions you ask — unless another smart reader beats us to it, which happens often — we’re also happy to help troubleshoot.

We take our recipe testing seriously, so it is rare that critical comments send us back into the kitchen. But sometimes a problem you experienced will cause us to take a fresh look, and when that happens, we appreciate the chance to set things right — and to increase the odds of success for other readers.

When I first wrote about Brooks Headley’s Superiority Burgers recipe five years ago, I knew veggie burgers could be a little finicky. After all, I’ve spent countless hours developing my own techniques — including staying away from food processors in favor of hand-mashing, and baking them first to help them set before (or instead of) frying. Veggie burger patties can often fail to hold together properly when you pan-fry them, but I thought that through some small adaptations in ingredient amounts and techniques, I had made Headley’s work. They were a little crumbly, but super tasty. There’s a reason they’re the title offering at his New York restaurant.

Not every reader had the same experience, unfortunately. When one wrote a comment describing a disappointing experience (“The issue I had was that they didn’t hold together”), we tried them again in our Food Lab and realized they could use more finessing. In subsequent tests, I ended up decreasing the quinoa by about a third and doubling the potato starch, resulting in sturdier (but no less delicious) patties. I tried pan-frying half the batch and baking the other half, and was pleasantly surprised to find that the fried patties held together nicely, even better than the baked ones, and I (again) loved the crispy texture that resulted.

I made one final tweak: a suggestion to only barely toast the hamburger buns, if at all. That’s because when the bun is heavily toasted, it can compress a veggie patty too much when you take a bite, causing it to squish out. If that happened to a reader, we’d surely hear about it — and would be glad we did.

Get the recipe: Superiority Burgers

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