Bar Miller, a three-month-old omakase counter in the East Village, is the creation of Jeff Miller, the chef and co-owner of the pioneering sustainable-sushi destination Rosella. The new spot, an eight-seat counter in a very tiny, gorgeously designed room, is more or less a spinoff of Rosella’s omakase program. (The parent restaurant is now entirely à la carte.) Miller designed his eponymous restaurant in conjunction with his business partner T.J. Provenzano, to showcase the expertise of James Dumapit, a veteran Rosella chef who forged his Japanese culinary skills at Austin’s famously excellent Uchiko. On a recent visit, Dumapit was manning the marbled-green sushi bar, assisted by a sous-chef and a puckish drinks manager. It was the early seating, and the mood was chill—three staffers, six...
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