Foul Witch, Reviewed: An Unnervingly Sensuous Restaurant from the Roberta’s Team
Foul Witch, a wine-focussed restaurant from the folks behind the Brooklyn pizza powerhouse Roberta’s, opened nearly a year ago, on a lower block of Avenue A that feels neither hip nor interesting. The restaurant, too, is oddly short on ambience: the long, narrow, high-ceilinged dining room is like a hallway to nowhere; the rough brick walls and exposed ductwork make the space feel unfinished, rather than artfully gritty; the open kitchen, built into the back of the space, has a startup-garage haphazardness, eschewing any aesthetic grace. This whole vibe is very Roberta’s—the original location in warehouse-filled Bushwick (there are now two more, in Williamsburg and L.A.) is a commune-like assemblage of shipping containers and party tents—though here, in the upbuilt East Village, the effec...
